How to Run a Fit Session
The essential guide to evaluating samples, documenting corrections, and communicating with suppliers to get fit right the first time.
Joe Lauder·Founder, Kōbō·Updated Apr 22, 2026Fit sessions are where samples come to life on a body. They're the critical evaluation point that determines whether your garment is ready for production or needs another round of corrections — and well-run sessions are the difference between 2 sample rounds and 5.
A fit session is a structured meeting where a sample garment is evaluated on a live fit model. The goal is to assess how the garment fits, moves, and looks — then document precise corrections for the supplier. Getting this process right requires preparation, the right people, clear documentation, and specific communication.
Before the Fit Session
Preparation is everything. A poorly prepared fit session wastes time and leads to missed issues that require additional sample rounds.
The Fit Session Workflow
Follow this systematic approach to evaluate every aspect of the garment without missing critical issues.
Initial Assessment — Model puts on garment. Step back 6-8 feet and assess overall silhouette and first impressions before taking any measurements. Does it match the design intent?
Static Evaluation — Check fit at each critical point: shoulders, bust, waist, hip, length. Take precise measurements and compare to the spec sheet.
Movement Testing — Model sits, reaches, bends, walks. Check for pulling, gaping, riding up, or restriction. Static fit doesn't equal actual wear.
Detail Review — Examine construction details: seams, stitching, closures, pockets, trims. Are they positioned correctly and executed properly?
Documentation — Photograph front, back, sides, and any issues. Take measurements of all key points. Document everything while it's fresh.
Decision & Comments — Approve, approve with corrections, or reject. Write clear, specific corrections using the fit comment formula.
Fit Evaluation Checkpoints
Use this checklist to systematically evaluate each area of the garment. Don't rely on memory — work through each checkpoint methodically.
| Area | What to Check | How to Test |
|---|---|---|
| Overall Silhouette | Does it match the design intent? | Stand 6-8 feet back to assess |
| Shoulder Fit | Seam sits at shoulder point? | Check movement doesn't shift seam |
| Bust / Chest | Appropriate ease, no pulling? | Cross-body reach test |
| Waist | Positioned correctly, comfortable? | Sit test for waist position |
| Hip | Adequate ease for movement? | Sit and stride tests |
| Length | Front, back, and sides balanced? | Check with intended shoes |
| Sleeve | Length and width appropriate? | Arms forward and raised tests |
| Collar / Neckline | Lies flat, doesn't gape? | Check with movement |
Who Should Attend
Keep fit sessions focused. Too many voices create confusion and slow down decisions. Each attendee should have a clear role.
| Role | Responsibility | Decision Authority |
|---|---|---|
| Designer | Evaluates overall aesthetic, approves changes | Design direction, aesthetic calls |
| Technical Designer | Measures, documents, writes corrections | Construction, measurements, grading |
| Fit Model | Provides feedback on comfort and movement | None (advisory only) |
| Merchandiser | Ensures fit aligns with target customer | Customer fit expectations |
Writing Effective Fit Comments
Vague feedback leads to more sample rounds. Clear, specific comments get corrections right the first time. The difference between good and bad fit comments is often the difference between 2 rounds and 5.
The Fit Comment Formula
Good vs. Bad Comments
"Sleeves are wrong"
"Shorten sleeve length by 1" from current 25" to 24""
"Too tight"
"Add 0.5" ease at hip. Current: 42", Revised: 42.5""
"Collar looks off"
"Lower back neckline by 0.25" to eliminate gaping"
"Fix the shoulder"
"Move shoulder seam 0.5" toward neck to align with shoulder point"
Common Fit Session Mistakes
No photos — Memory is unreliable — photograph everything, including issues and angles
Too many opinions — Limit decision-makers; too many voices create confusion and delay
Skipping movement tests — Static fit doesn't equal actual wear; always test movement
Imprecise measurements — "About an inch" isn't actionable; measure exactly
Delayed documentation — Write comments immediately; details fade within hours
Changing multiple things — Address critical issues first; don't change everything at once
Remote Fit Sessions
When in-person sessions aren't possible, you can conduct effective fit reviews remotely with proper preparation and clear protocols.
Final Thoughts
Treat fit sessions as a critical investment in your product development process. Prepare thoroughly, evaluate systematically, document precisely, and communicate clearly. The brands that master fit sessions are the ones that ship on time with fewer rounds and lower costs.
A well-run fit session pays for itself many times over. The time invested upfront saves weeks of delays and thousands in additional sample costs.
Joe's the founder of Kōbō Labs. Before this, he founded Satta, a fashion brand he scaled to sell internationally at Mr Porter, SSENSE, and Beams Japan. A decade of running his own brand — design, suppliers, production, the lot — is what Kōbō is built on.
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