Showing 67 terms
A
AQL
Acceptable Quality Level. Statistical sampling method to determine if a production lot meets quality standards. Common levels: AQL 2.5 (major defects), AQL 4.0 (minor defects).
B
BOM
Bill of Materials. Complete list of all components needed to produce a garment: fabrics, trims, labels, packaging, with quantities and costs.
Bulk
Full production run of a style, as opposed to samples. 'Going to bulk' means starting mass production.
C
CMT
Cut, Make, Trim. Manufacturing model where factory provides labor only; brand supplies all materials. Compare to FOB.
Colorway
A color combination or variation of a style. One style might have 4 colorways (e.g., Black, Navy, White, Sage).
Critical Path
Timeline of all key milestones from design to delivery. Used to track progress and identify delays.
D
Development Sample
Early sample made to evaluate design, fit, or construction before finalizing specs. Also called a proto or prototype.
Drape
How fabric hangs and falls. Affected by weight, fiber content, and weave. Key characteristic for garment aesthetics.
Drop
Product release or delivery. 'Spring Drop 1' means the first delivery of spring season merchandise.
DTM
Dyed To Match. Trims, threads, or components colored to match the main fabric exactly.
E
Ease
Extra room built into a garment beyond body measurements for comfort and movement. Negative ease = fitted; positive ease = relaxed.
Ex-Factory
Date goods leave the factory. Used to calculate shipping transit time to final destination.
F
Facing
Fabric piece sewn to finish raw edges (neckline, armhole, front opening). Creates clean interior finish.
Finish
Treatment applied to fabric after weaving/knitting: washing, brushing, coating, etc. Affects hand feel and performance.
Fit Model
Person with measurements matching the brand's base size, used to evaluate garment fit during development.
FOB
Free On Board (or Freight On Board). Pricing includes all production costs until goods reach the shipping port. Buyer pays freight.
G
Garment Dye
Dyeing process applied to finished garments rather than fabric. Creates soft, lived-in look with natural variation.
Grade
Scaling a pattern up or down to create different sizes from the base size. Grade rules define how much each point moves.
Grain
Direction of threads in woven fabric. Straight grain runs parallel to selvage; bias is 45° diagonal.
Greige
Raw, undyed, unfinished fabric (pronounced 'gray'). Base cloth before dyeing or finishing.
GSM
Grams per Square Meter. Standard measure of fabric weight. Higher GSM = heavier fabric. T-shirts typically 150-200gsm.
H
Hand
How fabric feels to the touch. Described as soft, crisp, stiff, drapey, etc. Also called 'hand feel'.
HS Code
Harmonized System Code. International 6-10 digit code classifying products for customs. Determines import duties.
I
Inline
Production happening according to schedule in the main production line (vs. offline repairs or rework).
Interlining
Fabric layer between outer shell and lining for structure, warmth, or opacity. Also called interfacing.
K
Keystone
Pricing markup of 2x (100%). Wholesale $20 → Retail $40. Standard retail margin formula.
L
Lab Dip
Small fabric swatch dyed to match a target color for approval before bulk dyeing. Usually 3-4 variations submitted.
Landed Cost
Total cost to get product from factory to warehouse: FOB + freight + duty + fees. True product cost basis.
Lead Time
Time from order to delivery. Production lead time is ex-factory; total lead time includes shipping.
Line Sheet
Sales document showing products, prices, and ordering info for wholesale buyers. B2B sales tool.
Lookbook
Visual presentation showing styled collection imagery. Lifestyle/brand storytelling vs. product details.
M
Marker
Layout showing how pattern pieces fit on fabric for cutting. Efficient markers minimize waste.
MOQ
Minimum Order Quantity. Smallest quantity a supplier will produce. Can be per style, per color, or total.
MSRP
Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price. Recommended consumer selling price. Also called RRP (Recommended Retail Price).
N
Notch
Small cut or mark on pattern pieces indicating where seams align. Ensures accurate assembly.
O
OEM
Original Equipment Manufacturer. Factory producing goods for other brands to sell under their label.
Overcut
Producing more units than ordered to account for defects. Typically 2-5% over PO quantity.
P
Pilling
Small fiber balls forming on fabric surface from friction. Indicates fabric quality and durability issues.
PLM
Product Lifecycle Management. Software managing product data from concept through production and sales.
PO
Purchase Order. Formal order document specifying quantities, prices, and terms sent to supplier.
POM
Points of Measure. Specific locations on a garment where measurements are taken (chest, waist, length, etc.).
PP Sample
Pre-Production Sample. Final sample for approval before bulk production starts. Must be production-accurate.
Proto
Prototype sample. First physical sample made to evaluate design concept. Early development stage.
Q
QC
Quality Control. Inspection process checking products against specifications. Can be in-line, pre-ship, or at receipt.
R
RN Number
Registered Number. US-specific identifier linking garments to the brand responsible for compliance.
S
Salesman Sample
Sample used by sales team to show buyers. Higher quality finish than development samples.
Seam Allowance
Fabric between stitching line and raw edge. Standard is 1/2" or 5/8" depending on garment type.
Selvage
Finished edge of woven fabric preventing unraveling. Runs lengthwise along roll.
Shrinkage
Reduction in fabric dimensions after washing. Specified as percentage (e.g., 3% shrinkage). Patterns adjusted to compensate.
SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. Unique identifier for each product variation (style + color + size). Used for inventory tracking.
Slopper
Basic pattern block from which other patterns are developed. Also called a block or sloper.
SMS
Salesman Sample. Sample quality garment for sales team to show potential buyers/retailers.
Sourcing
Finding and selecting suppliers for materials or manufacturing. Can be domestic or offshore.
Spec Sheet
Detailed document listing all measurements, construction details, and requirements for a style. Part of tech pack.
Strike-Off
Test print on fabric to approve colors and pattern placement before bulk printing.
Style Number
Unique identifier for a garment design. Different colors/sizes of same design share one style number.
Substrate
Base fabric or material that receives printing, coating, or finishing treatment.
T
Tech Pack
Technical package containing all specifications needed to produce a garment: sketches, specs, BOMs, construction details.
Tolerance
Acceptable variation from specified measurement. ±1/4" means actual can be up to 1/4" more or less than spec.
TOP Sample
Top of Production sample. First pieces from actual bulk production run for final approval.
Trim
Non-fabric components: buttons, zippers, labels, threads, elastics, etc. Everything except main fabric.
U
UPC
Universal Product Code. Barcode used for retail scanning. Unique to each SKU for inventory and POS systems.
V
Vendor
Supplier providing materials or services. Can be fabric mills, trim suppliers, or manufacturing factories.
W
Warp
Lengthwise threads in woven fabric (vertical on loom). Perpendicular to weft/filling threads.
Weft
Crosswise threads in woven fabric (horizontal on loom). Also called filling. Perpendicular to warp.
Wholesale
B2B sales to retailers at reduced price (typically 50% of retail). Retailers add markup for consumer sale.
Y
Yield
Amount of fabric needed per garment. Lower yield = more efficient pattern/marker = lower cost.
kōbō helps you manage the entire product development process with industry-standard workflows—putting this vocabulary into practice every day.