Ensuring that garments fit consistently across different sizes is one of the most critical aspects of fashion design. A well-graded pattern guarantees that each size maintains the correct proportions and structure while catering to diverse body types. Without proper grading techniques, brands risk ill-fitting clothing, increased sample revisions, and dissatisfied customers.

Pattern grading is the process of systematically increasing or decreasing a garment’s measurements to create a full-size range while preserving the original design’s proportions. This guide will cover the fundamentals of grading, common grading methods, industry-standard size charts, and how a PLM system like KOBO can optimize the grading process for accuracy and efficiency.

What Is Pattern Grading?

Pattern grading is the method used to scale a base pattern (sample size) up or down to create a full range of sizes. It is a mathematical process that maintains proportional relationships between various garment elements such as bust, waist, hip, armhole depth, and sleeve length.

For example, if the base pattern is a size M (Medium), it will be graded up to L, XL, XXL and down to S, XS by applying grade rules, which dictate how much each measurement increases or decreases per size.

Why Is Grading Important?

• Maintains Fit Consistency – Ensures that all sizes reflect the original design’s proportions.

• Reduces Sample Errors – Avoids excessive sample rounds by defining accurate grading rules.

• Improves Production Efficiency – Provides manufacturers with precise measurements, reducing the risk of incorrect sizing.

• Enhances Customer Satisfaction – Well-graded garments lead to better fit and fewer returns.

The Key Components of Grading

Base Size (Sample Size)

The sample size is the foundational pattern from which all other sizes are graded. Most brands choose a middle-range size, such as M (Medium) for adults or 8 for women’s wear. Choosing the right base size is critical because errors in this pattern will be magnified across the graded size range.

Grade Rules

Grade rules define how much each measurement increases or decreases per size. Standard grade rules differ between product categories (such as casualwear versus tailored clothing) and target markets (such as European versus US sizing).

Common grading increments for women’s tops:

| Size | Bust | Waist | Hip | Sleeve Length |
| --- | --- | --- | --- | --- |
| XS | -2.5 cm (-1") | -2.5 cm (-1") | -2.5 cm (-1") | -1 cm (-0.4") |
| S | -1.25 cm (-0.5") | -1.25 cm (-0.5") | -1.25 cm (-0.5") | -0.5 cm (-0.2") |
| M (Base) | 0 cm | 0 cm | 0 cm | 0 cm |
| L | +1.25 cm (+0.5") | +1.25 cm (+0.5") | +1.25 cm (+0.5") | +0.5 cm (+0.2") |
| XL | +2.5 cm (+1") | +2.5 cm (+1") | +2.5 cm (+1") | +1 cm (+0.4")

Grading Methods

1. Manual Grading (Hand Grading)

• Uses rulers, notches, and tracing techniques to expand or contract measurements.

• Suitable for small-scale production or designers working with custom pieces.

• Time-consuming and prone to minor inaccuracies.

  
  

2. Machine Grading (Digitized Grading)

• Uses specialized grading machines or CAD software to automate size scaling.

• More accurate and efficient than hand grading, reducing human error.

• Ideal for mass production and brands scaling operations.

  
  

3. Computerized Grading (PLM-Integrated Systems)

• Uses pattern-making software such as CLO3D, Optitex, or Gerber AccuMark.

• Integrates with PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) systems like KOBO to ensure grading accuracy across all production stages.

• Stores digital size charts and historical data to maintain consistency.

How a PLM System Like KOBO Optimizes Grading

1. Centralized Grade Rules and Size Data

KOBO PLM allows brands to store and standardize grading rules in one place, eliminating inconsistencies between collections or factories.

2. Seamless Integration with Digital Pattern Making

By integrating grading data with CAD software, KOBO ensures that size charts, measurement increments, and pattern modifications remain synchronized across all production stages.

3. Faster Sample Approvals

Grading adjustments can be updated instantly, reducing sample revisions and expediting production timelines.

4. Better Quality Control and Fit Accuracy

Tracking graded size variations over time helps identify fit discrepancies, ensuring that future collections remain true to brand sizing.

5. Automated Reports and Communication with Suppliers

Manufacturers receive precise digital specifications, reducing errors caused by manual data entry and misinterpretations.

Common Grading Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

1. Assuming Proportions Scale Evenly

Not all parts of a garment should be graded uniformly. Adjustments must account for body shape changes, not just size increments.

Solution: Use industry-standard grade rules or custom-fit testing with live models across size ranges.

2. Overlooking Sleeve and Armhole Adjustments

Scaling up a pattern without adjusting the armhole depth and sleeve width can lead to tight-fitting or oversized sleeves.

Solution: Adjust armhole depth and sleeve cap height separately to maintain comfort.

3. Not Testing Graded Patterns Before Production

Even digitally graded patterns should be sampled in multiple sizes before bulk production.

Solution: Produce test samples in at least three sizes (S, M, XL) to assess fit accuracy.

Conclusion

Mastering pattern grading is essential for any fashion brand that wants to deliver well-fitting, size-consistent garments. Whether using manual methods, digitized grading, or a PLM system like KOBO, ensuring accurate grade rules, proportional adjustments, and fit testing will lead to higher quality products and fewer returns.

Next Steps:

• Download our grading guide to refine your size consistency.

• Learn more about KOBO PLM and how it streamlines product development.

• Book a consultation to optimize your brand’s grading process.